Something Old, Something New

Gateway of the East: India, Christian Dior Pre-FW23 Show in Mumbai

This year Maria Grazia Chuiri, Christian Dior’s creative director, partnered with a special group of Indian artisans. The group showcased the beauty of Indian traditional crafts. As part of her collaboration with the women artisans of Chanakya Ateliers and the Chanakya School of Craft, they created intricate haute couture textiles.

photo source: Maria Grazia Chiuri Instagram account

As part of its mission, the Chanakya School of Craft and the Chanakya Foundation educate women in hand embroidery and traditional Indian cutting arts. It offers them income and financial independence. Many of the Chanakya Atelier makers are 13th generation crafts (wo)men who draw skills and knowledge from regional and tribal cultures across India's subcontinent.

Karishma Swali (left) and Maria Chiuri (right). photo source: Maria Grazia Chiuri Instagram account

Mumbai was the backdrop for this spectacular and culturally rich show. The runway presentation was integrated within an art installation of dense embroidery commissioned by the fashion house. 

Dior has fashion connections in India. Marc Bohan (artistic director from 1960 – 1989) traveled to Delhi and Mumbai in 1962 and created striking pieces for younger customers in the Indian market. These fashion events contributed to changing tides between France and India. Maria Chuiri has maintained professional relationships and meaningful personal friendships in India for over three decades. This is specifically with Karishma Swali, the founder of Chanakya Ateliers. Thus, Chuiri, has been committed to amplifying the influence and immense talents of Indian artisans. She even borrowed timeless shapes and Indian cuts and silhouettes from Marc Bohan’s Dior archives.   

christian-dior-fall-23-india

collage created by SOSNU Co.

In this Pre-Fall 2023 collection, Maria used rich jewel tone color palettes such as deep purples, pinks, yellows and greens, color-blocked with browns and black. Lots of India’s heritage and fashion culture was shown in the cuts of pants, jackets, boleros, wrap dresses and sari-inspired straight skirts.

For a more in depth look into the Chanakya School of Craft and Chanakya Ateliers processes for developing the embroidery for Dior’s collections, please click the video link: