Something Old, Something New

Global Fashion Summit 2025

A few weeks ago, I had the absolute honor and privilege of virtually attending the Global Fashion Summit. I enjoyed this event because it’s a place where like-minded individuals join to discuss innovative methods of reversing the environmentally destructive ways of the fashion industry. Industry stakeholders from all backgrounds and levels of expertise ascended Copenhagen with an agenda of pushing the needle toward net positivity through collaboration, impact, sustainable innovation, education, and of course policy and regulatory initiatives.

Currently, the fashion industry is responsible for about 10% of carbon emissions and pollutants pouring into our atmosphere, with a predicted increase to 26% by 2050.  This massive carbon and environmental footprint will only be reduced by real behavioral changes by brands and consumers. No longer are cheap synthetic materials made in warehouses with little to no regulations and by underpaid workers acceptable. The fashion industry must come to terms with the fact that approximately 85% of non-biodegradable textiles end up in landfills each year due to overconsumption and lack of end-term waste or circulatory solutions. CEOs, retailers, manufacturers, and producers are being held to task when it comes to taking actual steps towards a sustainable transition.  

Major TakeAways

The Panels I enjoyed the most covered topics relating to alternative materials - The Bio-Design Futures and Fibre Futures. Discovering alternative biomaterials always piques my interest because I believe sustainable materials paired with amazing design and affordability will truly change the trajectory of the adverse impact caused by the fashion industry’s reliance on fossil fuels.

From the panel, I was introduced to Innovera material, which is an alternative leather material made from plant proteins, biopolymers, and recycled rubber; as well as Phycolabs, a company from Australia creating seaweed-based fabrics solely from cultivated seaweed. Speakers spoke at length about how important it is to make these alternative materials accessible, affordable, and attractive for consumers so that they may truly stand a chance at marketability. I think it is important to mention that none of the speakers considered alternative materials to be a direct competitor of conventional materials, but rather to be placed in its category with its own regulations to support it and/or protect it. High-quality and sustainably produced alternative biomaterials can coexist alongside their conventional counterparts.

Policy regulators expressed the importance of legislation that would outline parameters for a sustainable transition. EU Parliament Member Rasmus Nordqvist spoke specifically about the positive outcomes that true transparency for consumers could lend. And contrast, how greenwashing and the abuse of buzzwords could diminish credibility and progress. 

Lastly, during the Fibre Futures segment, panelists spoke at length about material traceability and post-consumer waste. The overall goal here is to prevent synthetic fibers and textile waste from ending up in landfills causing even more harm and detriment. Many environmentally conscious producers are hoping to bridge the gap and drive adoption with sincere materials free of pollutants and harmful dyes. Brands like Haelixa, are adding natural [DNA] to fabrics which will “…verify the origin, quality and ethical production of any textile fibre”. Through partnerships with other brands, this traceability technology will garner trust from consumers, as well as impart knowledge of an item’s authenticity and its circularity potential.

Chris Brown 3D Printed Slides

R&B superstar, Chris Brown, is known for being a dynamic singer, dancer and actor but he is also a visual artist and streetwear clothing designer.  Most recently, Brown’s creative agency, the Auracles, collaborated with 3D printing footwear manufacturer, Zellerfeld and 3D shoe designer, Nos Ailes, to release the NAMI Slide.  Those slides sold out in three hours, breaking a record for the shoe company.

 If we’re mentioning it here of course - it’s sustainable…

 The 3D printed Nami 2.0 slides, made from NamiWave Foam (EVA), is pillow soft with memory foam.  They are completely biodegradable under optimal environmental conditions.  The innovation used to produce the slides offers a premium combination of unique materials while promoting sustainability. Designers are able to create amazingly progressive, sustainable footwear without waste and exorbitant cost needed for materials and shoe molds. The 3D printing technology significantly reduces the production and physical labor normally required to generate shoes.

nami slides Chris Brown

The NAMI Slides offer a uniqueness of functionality, durability and environmental sustainability unlike any other on the market.  The architectural design mimics a ridged, wave-like texture on the footbed and the upper honors its name – Nami, translating to the word “wave” in Japanese.  Of course the slides are offered in the coolest colorways and can easily be styled with high fashion streetwear or simply casual. 

Find the slides on theauracles.xyz . They are available in an array of colors (such as beige, yellow, purple and black), and retail for only $95.

sources:

The Auracles. https://theauracles.xyz/

Fabric of the Future - Cactus Leather by DESSERTO

Mexico is home to one of the latest sustainable textile innovations - Cactus Leather. Thanks to its semi-arid climate, the country has an abundance of cactus growing. The fast-growing plant doesn’t need water irrigation, nor do its farms use any pesticides. It is a resilient plant that can withstand drought and scorching temperatures. Cactus manages to thrive despite the adverse effects and challenging conditions resulting from climate change. It’s quite adaptable and can sequester carbon into the soil keeping the growing areas fertile. Thus the production of cactus leather makes a significantly lower impact on the environment compared to conventional leather and PVC-based alternatives.

cactus leather

photo source: DESSERTO

Located in the State of Zacatecas, DESSERTO naturally grows cacti on a 14-acre farm. It is the sole cultivator and manufacturer of this unique cactus leather. Providing sustainability throughout the entire value chain of its product production. USDA-certified, organic cactus is grown there on the grounds of the company, and it is watered only with rainwater. The cactus crops are sustainable for several reasons, including but not limited to access to raw materials, energy-efficient sun drying of the cactus, soil regeneration, and CO2 sequestering capacity.

Focus on NOPAL - The Process

Only the mature leaves of the NOPAL (prickly pear) cactus are harvested, which occurs twice a year (thanks to the plentifulness of the crops). The pads are cleaned, smashed, and left out in the sun to dry for nearly a week. Once dried, the cacti fibers go through a process that extracts a powdered protein, which is eventually mixed with the organic dyes to form a liquid bio-resin formula. And this formula, when combined with a carrier material, forms Cactus leather. There is dried mulch that remains as "waste" from the process, and it’s mostly used as animal feed, but it can be used in other ways such as dietary supplements and to brew beer.

DESSERTO proudly provides plant-based biomaterials as an alternative to animal leathers, that are made from organic renewable compounds. The company is also a USDA Certified Biobased Product, and is V-Label Certified (providing cruelty-free vegan materials).

As for now, the Founders only provide cactus leather as the final product for designers to create their own designs using the plant-based product. However, they are entrusting the resources, responsible innovation, creativity, and financial investments of the fashion industry to bring awareness to all, and eventually rectify its harmful global impact. In efforts to make a broader impact, DESSERTO has teamed up with forward-thinking brands beyond fashion such as Hublot & Mercedes Benz, who have used the bio-material alternative leather as an eco-friendly, cruelty-free solution for their products.