Something Old, Something New

Fabric of the Future - Cactus Leather by DESSERTO

Mexico is home to one of the latest sustainable textile innovations - Cactus Leather. Thanks to its semi-arid climate, the country has an abundance of cactus growing. The fast-growing plant doesn’t need water irrigation, nor do its farms use any pesticides. It is a resilient plant that can withstand drought and scorching temperatures. Cactus manages to thrive despite the adverse effects and challenging conditions resulting from climate change. It’s quite adaptable and can sequester carbon into the soil keeping the growing areas fertile. Thus the production of cactus leather makes a significantly lower impact on the environment compared to conventional leather and PVC-based alternatives.

cactus leather

photo source: DESSERTO

Located in the State of Zacatecas, DESSERTO naturally grows cacti on a 14-acre farm. It is the sole cultivator and manufacturer of this unique cactus leather. Providing sustainability throughout the entire value chain of its product production. USDA-certified, organic cactus is grown there on the grounds of the company, and it is watered only with rainwater. The cactus crops are sustainable for several reasons, including but not limited to access to raw materials, energy-efficient sun drying of the cactus, soil regeneration, and CO2 sequestering capacity.

Focus on NOPAL - The Process

Only the mature leaves of the NOPAL (prickly pear) cactus are harvested, which occurs twice a year (thanks to the plentifulness of the crops). The pads are cleaned, smashed, and left out in the sun to dry for nearly a week. Once dried, the cacti fibers go through a process that extracts a powdered protein, which is eventually mixed with the organic dyes to form a liquid bio-resin formula. And this formula, when combined with a carrier material, forms Cactus leather. There is dried mulch that remains as "waste" from the process, and it’s mostly used as animal feed, but it can be used in other ways such as dietary supplements and to brew beer.

DESSERTO proudly provides plant-based biomaterials as an alternative to animal leathers, that are made from organic renewable compounds. The company is also a USDA Certified Biobased Product, and is V-Label Certified (providing cruelty-free vegan materials).

As for now, the Founders only provide cactus leather as the final product for designers to create their own designs using the plant-based product. However, they are entrusting the resources, responsible innovation, creativity, and financial investments of the fashion industry to bring awareness to all, and eventually rectify its harmful global impact. In efforts to make a broader impact, DESSERTO has teamed up with forward-thinking brands beyond fashion such as Hublot & Mercedes Benz, who have used the bio-material alternative leather as an eco-friendly, cruelty-free solution for their products.

Diesel....Sustainable?

Glen Martens, best known for his early work at Jean Paul Gaultier and the high-end streetwear brand Y/Project, joined Diesel in October 2020. With Martens at its helm, Diesel is seeing the reformation that company founder, Renzo Rosso betted on when selecting him. Diesel has been a revered brand for nearly 40 years, but personally I remember the brand’s heyday during the early 2000s/Y2K era and all things Jeans Mania. On the red carpet, celebrities wore denim outfits adorned with the Diesel logo, while off-duty models donned Diesel's low-rise denim and the tiniest. Advertisements were radical and provocative.

Glen Martens - Forward Thinking in efforts to make Diesel a bit more sustainable

diesel fw 23

Diesel FW 23

Stepping into this role, Marten intends to do much more than create a few viral moments for the brand, instead opting for a more rooted approach. Initially, he will reevaluate the brand’s manufacturing channels and supply chain. He hopes to overlap the “then and now”, by embracing the company’s heritage through sparsely referencing its archives, as well as refitting some of the jeans by diversifying and expanding the range offered to customers. He also intends to extend the fundamentals the brand stands for by highlighting its progressive social and environmental values. Future collections will be made sustainable by using materials and dyeing methods that reduce the usage of water and harsh chemicals.

Marten has made substantial strides for specific sustainability initiatives: 

  • Launching the Denim Library Capsule

  • D:VERSE

  • Diesel Jean buyback program and Diesel Second Hand

The Denim Library Capsule is projected to account for more than 40% of brand sales. The current collection is derived from partly recycled fabrics, with the conceptual runway pieces being constructed using deadstock denim. Each of these pieces also has QR codes in pockets transparently detailing the steps of production supply chains. This collection offers a holistic approach to production using washes and treatments that minimize the use of water and chemicals. 

Not to be left out of the metaverse and Web3 arenas, Diesel is using technology innovation to gain the interest of GenZ and beyond. The brand debuted its own platform, D:VERSE, to host newly developed physical and virtual products.

Diesel’s jean buyback program and Secondhand circularity initiatives are available only in Milan, Florence, and Rome now with plans to expand. The buyback program launched in July 2021, and in just a few months over 900 pairs of jeans had been recovered and reconditioned. The restored jeans are treated with Polygiene’s anti-microbial and odor resistant ViralOff and Odor Crunch technology. The secondhand status of these items is identifiable by a bright red branded stamp on the waistband.

Circularity at Coach-topia: Let's Buy "Nothing New"

In recent months, COACH has launched a sub-brand called COACH-topia. As a side note, if I'm talking about it here at SOSNU Co., there is an absolute chance it involves some degree of sustainability or circularity.

coach-by-coachtopia

COACH-Topia is a collaborative and inclusive start-up community of the brand’s designers, key partners and hundreds of Gen Z individuals interacting on the company’s Slack channel with products, concepts, and campaigns.  Coach's primary mission is to advance a circular fashion system that creates more sustainable products from waste in order to reimagine the end-to-end process. 

As is the case with many other conventional luxury brands, COACH is fully aware of the fact that new products and materials contribute 38% to the fashion industry's greenhouse gas emissions. Therefore, they are seeking to minimize their environmental impact. They understand the younger generation of shoppers are much more conscious and adamant about spending money with brands that take accountability for their impact on the climate crisis. Therefore, COACH founded COACH-topia, based on circularity.  COACH-topia is a sheer reimagining of the product lifecycle - forcing the brand to design backwards. Coach designers are exploring innovative technology to make and remake their products. In addition, they are using creative design innovations to keep their products and materials out of landfills.

As a means of minimizing virgin raw material use, COACH-topia designers create newness using what's already available. They use recyclable, renewable materials found in COACH’s production waste. The makers have recovered at least 50% recycled leather scraps, 95% recycled cotton, 70% recycled resin, 100% recycle polyester, and 40% bio based renewable sugarcane EVA to design beautiful offerings. 

The brand has released Ready-To-Wear, shoes, bags and small leather goods all created with the “Made Circular” design philosophy. The products are easily disassembled with removable screw back hardware and detachable leather handles and straps. This design innovation will hopefully keep COACH branded products and materials in rotation for years to come. COACH-topia hopes that through branding and collaboration with Gen Zers, they will be able to extend their reach and influence because they understand that circularity requires a shift in consumer mindsets.

SHOP COACH-topia

Shop COACH-topia online or visit one of the brand’s Reusable Stores. These Coach-topia pop-up stores also reflect the “Made Circular” philosophy completely. Everything from the hangers, fixtures, décor and even furniture is made using upcycled COACH materials or locally salvaged. Lastly, in the spirit of full circularity, all COACH-topia products can be traded in COACH retail stores in exchange for credit towards brand new items.

Sources:

https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/introducing-coachtopia-a-new-world-of-circular-craft-from-coach-powered-by-community-building-towards-a-better-future-for-our-planet-301802641.html

https://www.coach.com/shop/coachtopia/about