Something Old, Something New

The Paris Agreement...without America

“Putting America First in International Environmental Agreements”

During President Trump’s inauguration event, he signed several executive orders, one of which specifically directed the United States to withdraw from any agreements, pacts, accords, or similar commitments made under the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change. The President instructed the US Ambassador to the UN to promptly submit a formal written notification of withdrawal from the Paris Agreement under the UN Framework Convention on Climate Change.

What is the Paris Agreement??

sosnu-paris-climate-agreement

The Paris Agreement is an international climate pact between 196 nations aiming to decrease global warming to 2.7˚F (1.5˚C) long term. The nations agree to work together to keep global warming below levels that could lead to an environmental catastrophe. Iran, Libya and Yemen are the only countries not part of the agreement.

[Timeline]

2015

  • In 2015 at the inception of the agreement, countries made individual commitments to do their part in combating harmful environmental woes.  

2017

  • Upon taking office, President Trump proclaimed that he would pull the US from the agreement as it “didn’t reflect US values”.  Trump instead pleaded to “…steer American taxpayer dollars to countries that don’t require, or merit financial assistance in the interest of the American people.” 

2020

  • President Trump’s efforts were formalized November 4, 2020, however, this was the day after President Joe Biden won the presidential election. 

2021 - Present

  • When Biden took office, he immediate reentered the US into the agreement.  Throughout his entire term, President Biden supported the pact pledging to provide targets to cut emissions of greenhouse gases by reduction of burning of coal, oil and natural gases.  Specifically, Biden most recently submitted a plan, the US International Climate Finance Plan, to cut US greenhouse gas emissions by more than 60% by 2035. President Trump’s executive order proposes the immediate revocation and rescission of Biden’s plan

Ultimately Trump believes that the United States could be a model for other countries in regard to environmental and economic objectives and therefore doesn’t have to be a part of the large international pact.  He is prioritizing US economic efficiency and consumer choice.  The Order boasts of how over decades, the US has increased energy production, reduced air and water pollution, and reduced greenhouse gas emissions on its own accord with the help of “sensible policies”. 

However many would argue that the US should join forces with those leading the charge against the climate crisis.  The US is the second largest annual carbon-polluting country (behind China) and is responsible for 22% of CO2 in our air since 1950.  

European Climate Committee members view the withdrawal as unfortunate, and reductive even.  They believe the efforts to slow climate change are much “stronger than any single country’s politics and policies”.  Climate disasters such as droughts, wildfires, and superstorms are undeniably becoming worse and much more frequent. 

Those assertions will not divert Trump’s agenda to – Put America First, Make America Great Again 

Fashion Forward - Paris Agreement

The global apparel industry is a major contributor to the climate and ecological crisis, accounting for approximately 2-8% of global carbon emissions, as well as consuming around 215 trillion liters of water each year. Adopting sustainability and circularity within the textile value chain has the potential to significantly shift cultural norms and practices, leading to reductions in environmental impact and positive climate outcomes.  Through aligned ambition with the Paris Agreement, key stakeholders in the fashion industry (many American companies/brands) have pledge renewed commitment efforts to the Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action.  Signatories to the Fashion Charter (130 companies and 41 supporting organizations) agreed to set science-based emission reduction targets and to create a decarbonization plan to limit the global temperature rise to 1.5˚C above pre-industrial levels.


Sources:

The White House. (2025). Putting America First in International Environment Agreements (Executive Order, Jan. 20, 2025) https://www.whitehouse.gov/presidential-actions/2025/01/putting-america-first-in-international-environmental-agreements/

Global Carbon Project. https://www.globalcarbonproject.org/index.htm

United Nations Climate Change. Global Change Action. Fashion Charter - Participants. https://unfccc.int/climate-action/sectoral-engagement-for-climate-action/fashion-charter/participants#eq-1

Taking a Global Look at EPR

epr-vintage-clothes

Fashion, fashion, fashion…the industry that impacts our environment more than we actually realize. As we navigate through our daily lives, buying the things we need, many may not want to acknowledge how much we consume and dispose of. Approximately 9.5 million tons of clothing are disposed of in North American landfills every year, and 85% of the world's textiles are burned or disposed of in landfills.

The fashion and textile industry on the whole accounts for approximately 10% of global greenhouse-gas emissions, when so many of the materials can be recycled or repurposed in some manner. Hundreds of billions are lost annually due to the underuse and negligent discarding of what we buy. Consumer waste is reversible by us. We can simply buy less, or shop sustainably which in part requires a shift in our consumption patterns.

Fighting Production Waste at its Source

Fashion designers and big brands produce large quantities of merchandise primarily based on consumer demand. And although many of those brands have taken voluntary action and initiatives to remedy their environmental impacts those individual efforts are not powerful enough. Circularity programs, reduction of single-use packaging or even switching completely to non-biodegradable packaging are great strides in neutralizing greenhouse gases; however, these sustainability targets cannot offset the carbon emissions produced by the fashion and textile industry. 

Some stakeholders and legislators believe EPR, or Extended Producer Responsibility, is a viable and sustainable answer to the ultimate elimination of textile waste. EPR is a policy approach that governs the post-consumer lifecycle of a product. It ensures that producers, not just brands, designers nor consumers, are held both physically and financially responsible for the appropriate disposal of their products and packaging. The enforcement of this policy is designed to promote positive environmental diversion, and in some cases incentivize producers for costs associated with end-of-life management.

EPR Regulation by Country

map of EPR policy by country

image source: E. Watkins and S. Gionfra (2019) How to implement extended producer responsibility (EPR): A briefing for governments and businesses

Now I will give a small summary of how various countries have adopted EPR policies to shift responsibility to industry players (at all stages of the fashion value chain). This production waste, no matter the country, contributes to differing forms of environmental pollution including the degradation of water, air, and soil. Without significant improvement on operational and environmental shortcomings, systemic issues will continue, preventing the achievement of a net positive industry by 2050.

  • Netherlands - adopted EPR for textile taken effect July 1, 2023

    In the Dutch market, EPR applies to all parties along the supply chain, as they are all co-responsible for managing product waste from the fashion industry.  Textile manufacturers and importers are responsible for collecting, recycling and overall waste management phase of clothing and occupational clothing brought into the market, as well as the costs of logistics of the system.  The municipalities are responsible for covering all acquired cost associated with collecting and recycling any discarded clothing from their residents.

    Source: https://business.gov.nl/amendment/fashion-chains-must-collect-discarded-clothing/

  • Italy

    Italy’s Ministry of Environment and Energy Security (MASE), Ministry of Enterprise and “Made in Italy” (MIMIT) drafted a decree that obligates producers and key stakeholders in the textile industry to implement EPR provisions regarding design, production, disposal, and recycling of textiles.  Italy is aiming towards innovation in circular economy model within the textile supply chain, according to standards set by European Parliament for EU members.  

    Directive (EU) 2018/851 introduces provisions at improving the reuse and recycling of waste.  Moreover, Italy drafted a new decree stemming from this EPR directive which introduces important changes for textile manufacturers and producers:

1.    Producers will take responsibility for financing and organizing the collection, preparation for re-use, recycle and recovery of textile waste.

2.    Producers must use financial and organizational means to collaborate with relevant authorities using management systems to coordinate textile waste collection, as well as “selective collection systems to increase the quality of textile fractions”.

3. Pay environmental fee necessary to provide waste management service. 

4.    Manufacturers (especially of design phases of textile products) must ensure that they develop, produce and market products “suitable for reuse and repair”.  Products should contain recycled materials, have durability and is easily repairable.

5.    Meet specific eco-design measures such as: bio-compatible textile fibers and natural materials; eliminate hazardous components and substances (i.e. microplastics)

Source: https://www.twobirds.com/en/insights/2023/italy/2023-02-16-responsabilita-estesa-dei-produttori-nella-filiera-dei-prodotti-tessili

  • South Korea

    In South Korea, there are mandatory packaging recyclability evaluations that are in place to ensure that all producers, manufacturers, and importers comply with Korean Packaging Recycling Cooperative.  This measure has been in place since 2020.  Korean packaging producers and importers also must comply with a recyclability grade labelling system.  All elements of certain types of packaging (paper cartons, glass & PET bottles, aluminum cans and composite material film sheet) must be assessed individually as excellent, good, average, or difficult to recycle before proper authorities will confirm and provide Certificate of Packaging Grade. 

    EPR contribution rates are set based on packaging grades, which could potentially promote the use of “excellent to recycle” packaging for all.  However, if manufacturers and importers are non-compliant with recyclability grading system, consequences may include a ban on manufacturing, importation, sales or a fine not exceeding 1 billion KRW.

    Source:https://www.loraxcompliance.com/blog/env/2020/01/31/Republic_of_Korea_changes_its_recycling_requirements.html

  • Japan

    Since the early 2000s, Japan has been implementing EPR provisions.  Producers may utilize the national level scheme, registering with Japan Container and Packaging Recycling Association giving municipalities responsibility for waste collection, sortation, and transportation for a fee, or simply apply for approval to use an individual recycling system to handle the recycling on their own.

    Source:https://www.loraxcompliance.com/blog/env/2021/07/05/Existing_EPR_policies_in_Asia_Pacific.html

  • France

    In French territories, marketplace sellers (e.g. Amazon) offering products and merchandise must comply with EPR regulations.  To avoid suspension, french authorities require merchants to register packaging material usage according to the total number of consumer sale units.  There are one of three packaging declarations schemes for sellers based on the number of CSUs placed in France throughout a calendar year.

    Global VAT Compliance suggest sellers license a smaller number of materials than the first filing of each year.  GVC offers one of three packaging declarations, according to the total number of consumer sale units sold in France.

  • Germany

    Similar to France, by law, Germany requires all sellers introducing products to license or declare the materials that will be used for packaging.  This must be done in advance in the appropriate agencies. Failure to comply with EPR policy obligations will result in sellers on certain marketplaces being suspended.

    Source: https://www.globalvatcompliance.com/epr-extended-producer-responsibility/

Eco-Friendly Dry Cleaning

 

Here on SOSNU Co., I have spoken at length about alternative shopping methods that are considerably more sustainable such as clothing rentals, subscription services or shopping second-hand. With the recent research I’ve done on fashion rentals, one of the larger problems was excessive laundering and dry cleaning by the service provider. I also wanted to know the effects it had on our environment. When one thinks about how the clothing rental industry has ballooned to an unforeseen value of $1.26 billion...that’s big business to say the least. And because the clothing rental platforms offer free laundry and professional dry cleaning as a standard service for their customers, the offering is quite imprudent and detrimental to the condition of the clothing and our environment.

As a result of its harsh cleaning processes, dry cleaning can ruin clothing.  It is a method that has a major impact on the environment because it requires much more energy than doing laundry at home. The primary reasoning for dry cleaning’s toxicity lies in the main chemical, perchloroethylene (PERC). It is also a threat to the public at large because it is found in our groundwater and soil. Excessive exposure to this toxic air contaminant is linked to diseases among garment workers.   There have been a vast range of health issues associated with dry cleaning. These include headaches, memory loss, limited mobility, and more severely respiratory failure and cancer.

The Future of Eco-Friendly Dry Cleaning

Changes starting in California & Minnesota

Following evaluations of PERC exposure levels in California, The California Air Resource Board (CARB) approved regulations to reduce PERC emissions from dry cleaning operations.  California become the 1st state to ban use of PERC.  In order to meet Jan 1, 2023 deadline for eliminating PERC usage in dry cleaning operations, the state provides financial incentives to the dry cleaners to switch to non-toxic and non-smog forming alternatives.  Legislations also requires CARB to impose $3 per gallon fee on importers of PERC for dry cleaning operations.  The fees collected provide grants to dry cleaners switching to clean technologies. 

The Legislature of Minnesota have enacted an act banning usage of PERC, which will come into effect after Dec 31, 2025.  There will also be reimbursement of $20,000 to owners and operators of dry-cleaning facilities for transitional expenses from PERC to alternative solvents.

Instead of Dry-Cleaning…Wet Clean and its Benefits:

  • Leave fresh natural scent instead of chemical odor

  • Uses water and mild biodegradable detergents

  • No PERC, chlorine, or phosphates

  • Decrease in epidermal issues and process is hypoallergenic which is more suitable for sensitive skin

  • Less felting, matting and friction thanks to gentle drum rotation with water showering

Companies going Green:

There are few companies continuing toward the dry-cleaning environmental response using innovative, non-toxic and non-smog forming cleaning technologies. Here is a list of vendors and suppliers across the nation whose leading expenditures are water-based and carbon dioxide (CO2) cleaning systems.

Oxwash.

Oxwash is an innovative wet cleaning capability and sustainable laundry service that supports several fashion retailers, specifically ones that provide clothing rentals and returns. There sustainable laundry service operates on a circular economic model that reduces water, chemicals, and energy use in the washing and wet and dry-cleaning process. Oxwash aims to avoid toxic chemicals and reduce pollution in the garment and textile industry by only using water and biodegradable detergents. They wash garments at 20ºC which reduces emission by 45%.

To further promote the company’s carbon neutrality mission, Oxwash has a fleet of electric cargo bikes that their employers use to collect clothing. These cargo bikes do not emit any hazardous gases or noise and light pollutants. Lastly for re-commerce, circular fashion renters and sustainable companies looking for efficiency and quality laundry cleaning services, Oxwash offers 48-hour turnaround within their metro areas (London, Cambridge and Oxford).

Rent the Runway (RtR).

RtR has the largest in-house dry-cleaning facility in the world.  Their quality assurance teams are committed to enhancing the efficacy of cleaning processes and increasing rental garment longevity.  Upon a garment’s return, each items completes a wet, dry, spot or hydroxyl cleaning process using biodegradable detergents free from added fragrance, zeolites, halogenated solvents and PERC. Afterwards, the items are steamed between 248oF and 302oF in a steam tunnel, and then sealed in a polyplastic covering to preserve their quality. 

In efforts to be more environmentally sustainable, RtR ask customers to return their plastic coverings and hangers, along with their reusable garment bags. These items can be reused and recycled.  RtR’s recyclables are transformed into wood-alternative building materials thanks to a partnership with Trex.

Sources:

California Air Resources Board

https://ww2.arb.ca.gov/our-work/programs/phase-out-perchloroethylene-dry-cleaning-process

Minnesota Statutes, 92nd Legislature

https://www.revisor.mn.gov/laws/2021/0/Session+Law/Chapter/5/

Oxwash

https://www.oxwash.com/

RTR

https://www.renttherunway.com/content/cleanconfidence